MANTIS MAINTENANCE

MAINTENANCE
Check the Air Filter Often
A wet or dirty air filter can affect the
way your engine starts, performs, and
wears. So, it’s a good idea to check your
air filter once a month.
If you work in dusty soil, or if you
want to be on the safe side — then
check your filter more often (for
instance, before each use). But be sure
to replace it at least once a year, in the
spring or fall. Clean or change it as
needed. It is recommended to change
the air filter yearly.
How to Check, Clean and
Change the Air Filter
1. Loosen the wing nut on the side
of the air-cleaner cover. (See Picture 1,
or look up Key #1 in Air Cleaner Parts
Assembly on page 17.)
2. Take off the cover. Make sure to
clear the choke button. (Picture 2)
3. The air filter is the pad on the
inside of the air-cleaner cover. Check
whether it is soiled or moist.
4. If the air filter needs cleaning or
no longer fits properly, remove it. Just
lift an edge carefully and “peel” it out.
(Picture 3)
5. Use a brush to remove debris
from the pad.
6. If the air filter is so dirty that it
won’t come clean, you must replace it
or severe engine damage will occur.
Order a new one directly from our
Customer Service Dept. Call 1-800-
366-6268.
7. Insert your clean filter inside the
air-cleaner cover.
IMPORTANT! Make sure filter
is “seated” properly in the
cover. The filter must fit
snugly inside the rim that
holds the filter in place.
Installing the filter incorrectly will
cause engine damage and void the
warranty. Fit the cover back over the air
cleaner. (Again, make sure to clear the
choke button.)
8. Tighten the wing nut to secure the
cover.
Note:
Please check the lip on the Air Cleaner
Cover. If the lip is chipped or cracked,
it should be replaced. This will prevent
dirt from being ingested through the
carburetor into the inside of the engine.
Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3
How to Check the Grease
Level Inside the
Worm Gear Housing
When we built your MANTIS Tiller,
we lubricated the worm gear housing
thoroughly.
It is imperative that you inspect the
grease level once a year. Simply remove
the cover plate on the worm gear
housing. (Picture 1) Then check to
make sure the grease comes almost to
the top of the housing. If it doesn’t, add
lithium #0 grease (Item 9985.) This is
the only way to add grease to the worm
gear housing. (Picture 2) To purchase
MANTIS grease, call your local
authorized MANTIS dealer.
Please do not overfill. Too much
grease can create pressure, which could
cause seals to fail or the clutch to slip.
Fuel Filter Replacement:
Fuel filter to be changed at the end of
every season.
Clear Blockages From
the Fuel Line & Filter:
After you’ve used your Tiller for a few
seasons, check for blockages in the fuel
tank and fuel filter. Such blockages can
keep your Tiller from starting.
Clear any blockages you see in the
tank, fuel filter, or fuel line. Remember:
The fuel filter is located inside the tank.
(See Picture 3) Then use the normal
starting procedure to start your Tiller.
Picture 2
Picture 3
Picture 1
12
What to Do if Your
Engine Idles Too High
What if your engine runs too fast
… or if the tines turn the instant you
start the Tiller? You may need to
adjust the idle screw (Key #19 under
Carburetor on page 17) by itself right
below the H and L screws. Gently turn
it counter-clockwise. You’ll know
you’ve adjusted it correctly when the
axles do not turn at low idle.
What to Do if Your
Engine Runs “Rough”
If your engine runs “rough” or
stalls, you may need to adjust the
carburetor and idle screws.
If you remove the air-cleaner cover,
you’ll see the two carburetor,
adjustment screws next to the choke
button. (Picture 1)
The “RED” screw is the HIGHspeed
adjustment…The “WHITE”
screw is the low speed adjustment.
First, remove the tines from the
axle. Then start engine. Let it run for
two to three minutes. “FLASH” the
choke several times during the warmup
to clear any air from the Fuel
system.
Then stop the engine after it
reaches operating temperature.
Now, turn the RED, high-speed
screw counter-clockwise all the way to
stop…Then turn the WHITE, low
speed screw halfway between the
counter-clockwise and clockwise stop
positions.
Now restart the engine to finish the
carburetor adjustment.
Run the engine at full speed two or
three seconds to clear out any excess
fuel. Then return to idle.
Now, accelerate the engine to full
throttle several times to check for a
smooth transition from idle to high
speed.
If the engine hesitates turn the
WHITE, low-speed screw counterclockwise
one-eighth of a turn. Then
accelerate the engine.
Repeat the adjustment until you get
a smooth transition to high speed.
WARNING•DANGER
REMOVE TINES BEFORE
STARTING ENGINE AND MAKING
ADJUSTMENTS
MAINTENANCE (continued)
Picture 1
! !
How to Reseat
the Flange
At some point, you may find
that the tines won’t turn when
you press the throttle. This may
mean the engine isn’t sitting all
the way down on the worm gear
housing.
Perhaps you’ve been using
your Tiller for several years. Or
perhaps you’ve removed the
engine for use with our hedge
trimmer attachment, then
replaced it. In either case, the
flange bolt (Key #38, page 18)
may have come loose and lifted
the engine up.
If this happened you’ll
notice a gap between the
bottom of the engine clutch
case (Key #37, page 18) and
the top of the worm gear
housing. (Picture 1)
To fix this, loosen the flange
bolt. Take the engine off the
worm gear housing. Notice the
hex head on top of the drive
shaft (Key #9, Page 16). Inside
the clutch case, you’ll find the
clutch drum (Key #31, Page
29). Make sure the hex head
lines up with the clutch drum
inside the clutch case.
Then put the engine back on
the worm gear housing. Make
sure the plastic carrying handle
is not under the fuel tank.
If you’ve followed these steps
properly, there will be no gap
between the clutch case and the
worm gear housing. (Picture 2)
Make sure you tighten the flange
bolt!
Picture 1 … Note how the engine
doesn’t sit all the way down on the
transmission.
Picture 2 … Note how the engine sits all
the way down on the transmission.
Cleaning the
Muffler Screen
1. Take out the spark
plug.
2. Remove the red
cylinder cover, (Key #32)
which is held on by 2
phillips-head screws,
(Key #33) and 1 hexhead
screw, (Key #34)
which you will need an
allen wrench to remove.
3. You will see the
metal exhaust guide, held
on by 3 more phillips-head
screws. (Key #26) Remove
the exhaust guide.
4. Behind the exhaust
guide (Key #25) will be
the muffler gasket (Key
#24) and muffler screen
(Key #23). The screen
sits under the gasket.
5. If the screen (Key
#23) is clogged with
deposits, it needs to be
cleaned. Use carburetor
cleaner, and any brush
that is not metal. Brush
the screen until you are
able to see through it.
6. If the screen
remains plugged after
attempts at cleaning, it
must be replaced.
WARNING•DANGER
DO NOT USE
GASOLINE OR OTHER
FLAMMABLE SUBSTANCE

ALAMIA


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