Exceptional tiller technology. With legendary Honda four-stroke engines, advanced tine design and low center of gravity, Honda tillers are extremely efficient.
Conveniently located controls. This means more comfort, improved ease of use and increased safety.
Folding handles. Designed to be user-friendly even when they are not in use, our mini- and mid-tine tillers are easy to store.
Transport wheel. Available on most of our models, this feature makes moving the tillers as easy as using them.
Choice of transmissions. Honda offers both chain drive and worm gear drive transmission systems so you can pick the one that best meets your needs.
Remarkable results. The Honda tiller produces finely tilled, loam-grade soil, while other tillers require multiple passes to obtain the same results.
Honda offers the type of power and performance that will keep a smile on your face.
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BCS is the largest manufacturer in Europe of premium quality, all-gear-driven, two-wheel tractors and attachments. Hundreds of thousands of customers in over 50 countries depend upon BCS quality every day to accomplish a multitude of demanding tasks --tilling, mowing, snow removal, chipping, sweeping, etc.
Founded in the 1940’s by Engineer Luigi Castoldi, BCS helped pioneer the mechanization of agriculture in Italy. As you can imagine from the accompanying photograph, taken in 1946, the introduction of the BCS “motor mower” transformed the process of haymaking, compared to the use of hand scythes.
The tradition of innovation continues. Today’s precision-crafted, two-wheel tractor features reversible handlebars that accommodate both front- and rear-mount attachments. Its all-gear-driven performance provides a dramatic alternative to the belt- and chain-driven, single purpose equipment typically sold by the lawn and garden power equipment industry in the US.
Residential property owners and others who seek reliable proven performance and quality.
Efficient hand held blower that combines high blowing power with user friendliness. Perfect for home owners. Well balanced and easy to manouevre thanks to in-lined air out let.
Engine power values are as rated by the engine manufacturer.
Medium Duty, Seasonal or Occasional Use
Residential property owners and others who seek reliable proven performance and quality.
MAINTENANCE Check the Air Filter Often A wet or dirty air filter can affect the way your engine starts, performs, and wears. So, it’s a good idea to check your air filter once a month. If you work in dusty soil, or if you want to be on the safe side — then check your filter more often (for instance, before each use). But be sure to replace it at least once a year, in the spring or fall. Clean or change it as needed. It is recommended to change the air filter yearly. How to Check, Clean and Change the Air Filter 1. Loosen the wing nut on the side of the air-cleaner cover. (See Picture 1, or look up Key #1 in Air Cleaner Parts Assembly on page 17.) 2. Take off the cover. Make sure to clear the choke button. (Picture 2) 3. The air filter is the pad on the inside of the air-cleaner cover. Check whether it is soiled or moist. 4. If the air filter needs cleaning or no longer fits properly, remove it. Just lift an edge carefully and “peel” it out. (Picture 3) 5. Use a brush to remove debris from the pad. 6. If the air filter is so dirty that it won’t come clean, you must replace it or severe engine damage will occur. Order a new one directly from our Customer Service Dept. Call 1-800- 366-6268. 7. Insert your clean filter inside the air-cleaner cover. IMPORTANT! Make sure filter is “seated” properly in the cover. The filter must fit snugly inside the rim that holds the filter in place. Installing the filter incorrectly will cause engine damage and void the warranty. Fit the cover back over the air cleaner. (Again, make sure to clear the choke button.) 8. Tighten the wing nut to secure the cover. Note: Please check the lip on the Air Cleaner Cover. If the lip is chipped or cracked, it should be replaced. This will prevent dirt from being ingested through the carburetor into the inside of the engine. Picture 1 Picture 2 Picture 3 How to Check the Grease Level Inside the Worm Gear Housing When we built your MANTIS Tiller, we lubricated the worm gear housing thoroughly. It is imperative that you inspect the grease level once a year. Simply remove the cover plate on the worm gear housing. (Picture 1) Then check to make sure the grease comes almost to the top of the housing. If it doesn’t, add lithium #0 grease (Item 9985.) This is the only way to add grease to the worm gear housing. (Picture 2) To purchase MANTIS grease, call your local authorized MANTIS dealer. Please do not overfill. Too much grease can create pressure, which could cause seals to fail or the clutch to slip. Fuel Filter Replacement: Fuel filter to be changed at the end of every season. Clear Blockages From the Fuel Line & Filter: After you’ve used your Tiller for a few seasons, check for blockages in the fuel tank and fuel filter. Such blockages can keep your Tiller from starting. Clear any blockages you see in the tank, fuel filter, or fuel line. Remember: The fuel filter is located inside the tank. (See Picture 3) Then use the normal starting procedure to start your Tiller. Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 1 12 What to Do if Your Engine Idles Too High What if your engine runs too fast … or if the tines turn the instant you start the Tiller? You may need to adjust the idle screw (Key #19 under Carburetor on page 17) by itself right below the H and L screws. Gently turn it counter-clockwise. You’ll know you’ve adjusted it correctly when the axles do not turn at low idle. What to Do if Your Engine Runs “Rough” If your engine runs “rough” or stalls, you may need to adjust the carburetor and idle screws. If you remove the air-cleaner cover, you’ll see the two carburetor, adjustment screws next to the choke button. (Picture 1) The “RED” screw is the HIGHspeed adjustment…The “WHITE” screw is the low speed adjustment. First, remove the tines from the axle. Then start engine. Let it run for two to three minutes. “FLASH” the choke several times during the warmup to clear any air from the Fuel system. Then stop the engine after it reaches operating temperature. Now, turn the RED, high-speed screw counter-clockwise all the way to stop…Then turn the WHITE, low speed screw halfway between the counter-clockwise and clockwise stop positions. Now restart the engine to finish the carburetor adjustment. Run the engine at full speed two or three seconds to clear out any excess fuel. Then return to idle. Now, accelerate the engine to full throttle several times to check for a smooth transition from idle to high speed. If the engine hesitates turn the WHITE, low-speed screw counterclockwise one-eighth of a turn. Then accelerate the engine. Repeat the adjustment until you get a smooth transition to high speed. WARNING•DANGER REMOVE TINES BEFORE STARTING ENGINE AND MAKING ADJUSTMENTS MAINTENANCE (continued) Picture 1 ! ! How to Reseat the Flange At some point, you may find that the tines won’t turn when you press the throttle. This may mean the engine isn’t sitting all the way down on the worm gear housing. Perhaps you’ve been using your Tiller for several years. Or perhaps you’ve removed the engine for use with our hedge trimmer attachment, then replaced it. In either case, the flange bolt (Key #38, page 18) may have come loose and lifted the engine up. If this happened you’ll notice a gap between the bottom of the engine clutch case (Key #37, page 18) and the top of the worm gear housing. (Picture 1) To fix this, loosen the flange bolt. Take the engine off the worm gear housing. Notice the hex head on top of the drive shaft (Key #9, Page 16). Inside the clutch case, you’ll find the clutch drum (Key #31, Page 29). Make sure the hex head lines up with the clutch drum inside the clutch case. Then put the engine back on the worm gear housing. Make sure the plastic carrying handle is not under the fuel tank. If you’ve followed these steps properly, there will be no gap between the clutch case and the worm gear housing. (Picture 2) Make sure you tighten the flange bolt! Picture 1 … Note how the engine doesn’t sit all the way down on the transmission. Picture 2 … Note how the engine sits all the way down on the transmission. Cleaning the Muffler Screen 1. Take out the spark plug. 2. Remove the red cylinder cover, (Key #32) which is held on by 2 phillips-head screws, (Key #33) and 1 hexhead screw, (Key #34) which you will need an allen wrench to remove. 3. You will see the metal exhaust guide, held on by 3 more phillips-head screws. (Key #26) Remove the exhaust guide. 4. Behind the exhaust guide (Key #25) will be the muffler gasket (Key #24) and muffler screen (Key #23). The screen sits under the gasket. 5. If the screen (Key #23) is clogged with deposits, it needs to be cleaned. Use carburetor cleaner, and any brush that is not metal. Brush the screen until you are able to see through it. 6. If the screen remains plugged after attempts at cleaning, it must be replaced. WARNING•DANGER DO NOT USE GASOLINE OR OTHER FLAMMABLE SUBSTANCE
